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mountain Fuji view from field


My vision is that rock climbing should not be taken as a competition, should be a joy. My vision of training is that it should prepare you to fall in tune with the rock. My vision of training is that you should drop training as soon as possible.

A man is trying to move his donkey, which has balked and it does not go further: all the attempts have failed: urging, pushing, and pulling. And the man's anger increases, until at the end of patience, he looked into the donkey's eyes and whispers to him: "You can beat me in intelligence, but in strength..." and so he load the donkey on his shoulders carrying him away!

It's just a joke, but this is exactly what makes a big part of the climbers. They come under the wall and say: "You can beat me in intelligence, but in strength ..."

You train when you wish to develop a specific ability that you will use later in the future. For example, a sprinter trains to run the 100m in the shortest possible time. The path of the sprinter is predictable, it will not change in the future. In rock climbing the situations are changing consistently.

Have you ever seen Picasso train to paint? Just the idea seems ridiculous! The art does not require training, requires practice. You practice art; you cannot train to make art. Of course some might say that the practice is a form of training, but it is not. It is very simple: what you do for the present, for the joy of that moment is practice, what you do to plan for the future, is training. The difference is substantial and profound. Many think that practice and training are synonymous, but they are not, they are opposites.

While practicing you are conscious, aware. Training is for the future, for the result you wish to achieve. Practice is for the present, training is a replacement of what you would like to practice. Training is just a repetition of this replacement. Who trains creates a replacement of what he would like to do, and then he repeats it in a mechanical way. Just this mechanization takes you away from the necessary practice of rock climbing. If you want to practice do not search for substitutes, otherwise you will become like a machine that can only repeat the same things. Try to think of a writer, who is training to write. He'll be ridiculous! Sure he might train writing, and he'll probably become good at writing, but in the literal sense of the term. After training definitely he'll be able to develop a good handwriting, but where are creativity and sensitivity, so necessary for the writer?

Boris Pasternak, Nobel Prize, Russian poet and author, said: Man is born to live, not to prepare for life.

Why is it so difficult to get the difference between practice and preparation? In our society there is a wish to create the illusion of being in control of everything, to deceive people that everything is controllable, that planning one's life we can live peaceful and happy. Think about how much time spent on the preparation: school, college... It 's normal that in our society, seems obvious to prepare for everything.

But there are things for which the preparation is not necessary, indeed is counterproductive. Think of a man, who is preparing what he'll say to the women during his date, he certainly cannot be spontaneous! He will be mechanical, ridiculous: you cannot prepare for living life! There are things that the preparation, the training makes completely unnatural. Rock climbing is for sure one of them. Watch a climber that copies the movements seen in a manual or done by a more experienced climber. It is completely unnatural, ridiculous! On the crags this has become the normality, there are full of imitators, of parrots.

If you are a climber is natural that you climb, as is natural for a flower to flourish, but a flower must certainly not train for it! Climbs with consciousness, but do not try to prepare for climbing. However, many climbers prefer to learn and repeat the same movements up to the limit of their physical capabilities. They become very good at repeating the same movements, very strong! But those movements, on another crag, on a different rock, do not make sense, do not fit on it.

A nun has a parrot and leaves him to a farmer: I recommend not teach him bad words because on Sunday he'll to go to church! And the nun goes away.
The farmer breaks the hoe: Holy shit I broke the hoe! And the parrot is listening.
The farmer of the neighboring land: My god, the cow fainted, and now how I do?
The farmer: put a finger in her ass, she'll revive! And the parrot is listening.
Sunday comes, the nun take the parrot and goes to the church. During the mass the parrot says: Holy shit! And the nun faints.
The priest: the sister fainted and now how I do?
The parrot: put a finger in her ass, she'll revive!


7 reasons to quit training


Have you ever asked yourself if you should train for climbing? If you are training, you've ever wondered if your climbing is really improving, or you are just climbing higher grades by using strength. Here are 7 reasons not to train or to drop training.

1 . Training for climbing is the opposite of the climbing practice

The practice and training are not synonymous, but they are opposites. The practice of climbing is a very intense physical activity which, if practiced consciously, allows you to develop strength, technique and creativity. These elements are naturally well balanced in practice and can develop simply by practicing with attention and consciousness. On the other side training, artificially exclude the most important elements, by forcing physical training with the expectation of improvement. Unfortunately, what you create is an unbalance, which is effective only on limited climbs.

2 . Training suppresses your intelligence

In rock climbing often you need just a minimum of intelligence to avoid some difficulties. And of course, you need just a minimum of stupidity to transform an easy climb in an extreme one. The patterns of training with their repetitive nature and mechanics are a great way to kill your intelligence.

3 . Training cancels your curiosity

Watch the kids, learning for them is something absolutely natural, a child is naturally curious and asks why of certain phenomena. It is not easy to suppress this curiosity; in fact, the children continue to ask and to be curious. To stop this curiosity is necessary to invent something really efficient. But the man is brilliant when it comes to inventing something that can harm himself and of course he did it: he invented the preparation based on the repetition of the same actions. The training systems are based on repetition; today's school system is based on repetition and accumulation of knowledge. This type of preparation mechanically applies the knowledge already accumulated. Each mechanical action, each repetition which is not done consciously kills the curiosity, the desire to experiment.

4 . Training deny your individuality

Every person is different from all the others. This simple observation is considered in the manuals of training? Who is in the center, the person or the training? The training is based on conformity; this is the main reason for the failure of many people who are training.

5 . Training is a mechanical system

You're not a machine, you are a person and people do not need a timetable, but stimulations, provocations, people need to find the joy of climbing.

6 . Training is creating a habit

The habit reduces perceptual skills: try to observe nature; you'll see that animals who do things out of habit are the first victims of predators. The situations are never repeated exactly as before, we must always be ready to adapt. The habit makes you not adaptable.

7 . Training is limiting your experiences

Think about the experiences you could be doing while rock climbing instead of training or doing pull-ups. It's a shame to waste your time with surrogates. Train less and climb more!


Ivo Buda


The article image is one of the Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji, a series of prints by the Japanese artist Katsushika Hokusai. The series depicts Mount Fuji in differing seasons and weather conditions from a variety of different places.