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samurai climbing a rock wall

Someone tells an old man to eat more bread, so that he can regain his sexual ability. Enthusiastically, he runs to the bakery: "5kg of bread, please!"
The baker, knowing that he lives alone: "Come on, man, it will get hard!"
Old man: "Then give me 15kg!"

Everyone is looking for a method that guarantees certain results, but perhaps the only certainty we have is that the more we focus on a result, the harder it will get there, simply because we are focusing on a possible future (the result) rather than on the present. For this reason it is important to climb new routes or climb in a different way on routes you already know, having fun and experiment, then the success will come without your expectation.

The art of climbing on unexplored rock

The margin that exists between the grade that you can climb on-sight, and the red-pointed one is certainly an indicator of a problem to solve. Probably if this margin is too high simply means that your body is strong, but you are not able to see, understand and then dance on the rock.
Where to start? It 's very simple: those climbs where it is easy to dance for you, or try to climb on a way which seems trivial at first glance. Is it true that you would improve more if you went rock climbing on easy routes than just trying difficult climbs? Why climbing on easy routes helps you to improve more? The answer is so obvious, that most people can not see it. When you climb too high grades you tend to focus on yourself excluding all that surrounds you. On the other hand when you climb on low grades, you are more open and willing to receive the gifts that the rock gives you: the holds, especially the hidden ones. When this attitude become spontaneous on the easier climbs it is very simple to transfer it on more demanding ones. Those who frequently redpoint a certain grade are definitely able to climb it on-sight too, it is just the point of different attitude.
If you want to climb well you have to climb in intelligent way, you have to be intelligent. In fact most people are intelligent, those hopelessly stupid are a small minority, but unfortunately even intelligent people behave stupidly because of the wrong customs which are taught mainly by the society around us.
These customs like all habits are hard to give up: this abandonment will be the most challenging job. In reality there is no need to do anything, it is rather the case to remove all the unnecessary work. Unfortunately, we always used to "do" something, and "not doing" can be more difficult.

These are just some of the bad habits to quit in order to improve your way of climbing, here I will just introduce them briefly, then I would like to explain better in the future articles:

1. Stop training but not climbing

It seems obvious, but for many climbers this is the most difficult step. The climbers are constantly training even during climbing. It seems incredible, but to achieve some goals, you have to stop looking for it. Do you remember when you don't find your key in your house? Once you stop searching, you find it.

2. Do not force the moves, but try to interpret the rock

Do not climb in a stupid way, do not use brute force to overcome a climb. Getting over a passage with only the use of force may seem effective or necessary at the time but in the long run it leads to the bad habit of misunderstanding the rock. So you will miss the secrets that make you pass without the use of force. This is not to minimize the importance of the physical part of climbing. Our physical form in this activity is essential, but it must work in harmony with everything else.3. Do not climb if you are not relaxed, relaxation and breathing are essential
The more you challenge the rock the less you will be relaxed. The will is the biggest obstacle to the relaxation. The concentration on the breath is one of the most well-known techniques to achieve relaxation. In addition, correct breathing will suggest you a natural rhythm of climbing.

4. Do not renounce to be playful

When you begin to say "I have to do" the game will come to the end. When you start to be playful, you never say "I have to do". But what is the difference between work and play?
Try to observe the children. The children who play for fun, do not distinguish between the game and what an adult might consider it as a job. Until it comes to the reward: at this point the long-term benefits take precedence over the gratification of the game. If you search for the reward, you will turn your favorite game into a job.

5. Do not repeat yourself, climbing is an adventure, do not kill the spirit of adventure

Everyone wants to be adventurer. Climbing is a game of discovery, adventure, and it's up to you to keep it like that. If you continue to repeat the same movements and the same routes, climbing only on that type of rock congenial to you, you will kill the spirit of adventure. Stop being repetitive, do not make the same movements or positions learned from books. Learn to think for yourself. Your intellect is a better instrument than any learned technique.

6. Give up searching for the grade

Even if you reach high grades, it does not mean that you will become a good climber. I've seen so many climbers who climb on higher difficulties, having trouble on climbs that are definitely below their physical level, just because their low quality of climbing. If you really need to have a goal, you can pursue and improve your quality of climbing. The main problem of the teachings of climbing is that they focus too much on the grades and not on real climbing. On the rocks I've often seen the climbers moving awkwardly, and then saying "I do the 8a, 9a ...". It 'a shame that the only way to communicate these performances is to list them. I hope that one day these climbers can show their mastery through the natural movements of the body and their way of climbing.

7. Leave at home the climbing topo guide

Do not always go rock climbing with a guide in your hand to check what you think you are capable of doing. If you spend your time reading a book instead of reading the rock, you'll know what's in the book, but not what's on the rock.

8. Leave the discipline and find your passion

Discipline is one thing that is required when there is no passion. Do you remember how in school the discipline was taught as if this was a necessary virtue in life? This virtue is necessary when you are forced to study things that do not interest you. If you have a passion, discipline is not required, the passion will help you to find the motivation to continue. Despite the difficulties, you will encounter on your way.

9. Do not be competitive

The competitiveness is useless, even it helps to decrease your relaxation, this is a key condition to climb well.

10. Stop climbing on routes that are too difficult for you

Einstein said: You can not solve problems with the same thinking that created them. You want to climb well, but when you climb high grades, you can't climb well, so you train on hard routes wishing to improve, but you continue to climb badly. Ultimately you continue with the same mentality that caused your problem. The obstinacy towards the challenges caused the problem, so the only way to get over is to change the way and to start climbing from where it becomes fun and playful.



Ivo Buda